Earth Notes: Groundhogs and Their Diets

LOOK WHO IS STOPPING BY FOR A VISIT, but columnist Nancy Donovan’s friend, The Groundhog.

By Nancy Donovan, Ph.D.,PT

Master Gardener Volunteer

A few years ago, I was on my knees in my garden placing the pots of newly purchased plants in potential permanent spots. Something was moving near my front stairs and so I stood up to look. Lo and behold, it was a groundhog looking straight at me from a distance of approximately 10 feet. It just so happened that I had my camera in my back pocket, and I was able to snap a photo to record the incident. I think that the groundhog was observing the new plants and planning her/his dinner menu. Finally, I was able to surmise what had happened to several other plants that had disappeared from where I had carefully planted them. 

I began to walk toward it to gently scold it and to encourage it to leave the area. I do admit that if it could speak it probably would have had a different summary of my words and actions. In any case, it did scamper away, and I saw it go into a hole in the large mountain of soil that had been excavated for the building of my basement. While I did not want to kill it, I also did not want it to continue to get its nutrition from my garden. 

First, I blocked the hole I saw with dirt. The next day, I saw the groundhog smirking at me from the same hole. Next, I placed a small boulder to block the hole. I then read on the Internet that the groundhog excavates several entrances and exits. I did not want to explore more as I wanted to prevent a sprained ankle, or worse, from holes that may be obscured by grass/weeds. My next strategy was to purchase a Havahart trap and place a piece of my cantaloupe (a favorite of groundhogs) in the trap. The next morning, I saw the trap door was closed and as I was about to claim victory, I saw that I had captured a large momma skunk. I knew it was a momma because I saw three baby skunks trying to get in to be with their momma. The Eureka moment now passed, I retrieved a tarp to hold in front of me and I walked very slowly and gingerly toward the trap while saying in a soft (scared) voice “Now momma… I am going to set you free so please, please, do not spray me.” I opened the trap and momma and her babies reunited and ran toward the tall grass while I held my breath and ran very quickly in the opposite direction. I placed the trap in the back of the garage, and it has gone unused since that time.

I returned to my computer and read that placing tin pie plates and whirly gigs around the garden would discourage the groundhog. I invested in the high-tech equipment, and it did seem to work for a while. However, I decided that the tin plates and fabric whirly gigs in the garden ruined the natural look I wanted to achieve.

I next tried to evict it by placing a hose at the entrance. I think that just resulted in the waste of water, or a cooling pool for the groundhog. I wondered if the groundhog was establishing a neighborhood with several condominiums. Next, I read about coyote urine and, while I momentarily wondered how the sellers retrieved the urine, I was willing to try it, as long as I did not have to collect it. The sellers of the coyote urine also sell small plastic bottles in which to place the urine and I placed them on curved plant stakes. For the rest of the summer, I replenished the coyote urine and sprayed some of the flowering plants (not vegetables) with repellants I purchased. Ugh! Not fun, but the flowers remained un-eaten. My vegetable garden was in 3-foot-high raised beds and so the coyote urine that I hung near them saved my veggies so that I could benefit from the nutrition, including yummy BLTs.

The next year, I, once again, saw a groundhog beginning to dig near my leach bed. That I could not allow. After more research, I read that placing soiled kitty litter near the hole discourages the groundhog as it apparently sees that as a signal from a predator. Thankfully, I happen to have two wonderful cats that volunteered to provide the soiled litter. That appeared to be quickly effective, and the cats continued to provide.

This year, I planted Italian string beans, as I always do, in raised beds that I built that are only 1.5 feet from the ground. The plants were doing very well, but one morning, I went out to water them and there was nothing but chewed stems. While I have not seen a groundhog this year, there are other critters that apparently enjoy the young plants. So, I purchased wood and poultry netting and built 3x6 cages to surround the plants. I re-planted and it looks as though I will have plenty to eat, and some to freeze to enjoy during a snowstorm.

My readings have provided me with more education about the furry critters. Groundhogs are also known as woodchucks, marmots and whistle pigs. They get the latter name because of the sound they make when they are alarmed. The official species name is Marmota monax and it is, surprising to me, the largest member of the squirrel family. The groundhog (woodchuck) can range from 6 to 12 pounds, be approximately 20 inches long and have a six-inch tail. The term woodchuck is not derived from its relationship to wood or chucking. The term originated as an Algonquian name for the critter, “Wuchak” which is interpreted as “the digger.”

As we are reminded each year, the groundhog has one day in February where hundreds of people assemble in Punxsutawney, Pa. to use one groundhog to predict the possibility of early spring or six more weeks of winter, based upon whether the groundhog casts a shadow when it is involuntarily taken from its winter home. Punxsutawney Phil is snatched from her/his deep hibernation for this event even though the accuracy of the prediction is only correct 39% of the time. After providing the prediction, the groundhog is replaced in its winter home to continue what it was doing – hibernating deeply and peacefully.

Researchers have informed us that hibernation of the groundhog occurs in the tunnel it excavated specifically for the winter, below the frostline, and that it begins at the end of October or early November. It will come out of hibernation and breed in March/April. The females will produce 4 to 6 kits that will be weaned by early July. Each groundhog has a lifespan of 3 to 4 years. The groundhog will burrow 2 to 4 feet below the surface of the ground and can create a network of tunnels 8 to 60 feet long. Knowing this data, it has been determined that the best time to evict a groundhog is during mid to end of summer. That is because the tunnels should not be filled in until the babies leave the tunnel.

Groundhogs are vegetarians and they eat approximately one pound of food each day. They have some favorites, including alfalfa, clover, dandelions, daisies, hostas, basil, parsley, zinnias, chrysanthemums, beet greens, green beans, lettuce, carrots, celery, corn, peas, beans, broccoli, blackberries, raspberries, cherries, cantaloupes, and apples. They will also nibble on tree bark and twigs and ornamental shrubs. As you can see, they have a pretty healthy diet with some of it coming from the hard work of gardeners.

Okay, so many people ask for advice about how to discourage groundhogs from getting their nutritional diet from gardens. Another consideration is that the digging and burrowing by groundhogs can weaken the soil and potentially cause injuries to desired animals as they trip or fall into the holes. Groundhogs can also cause damage to farm equipment that encounter the holes and can also cause damage to building foundations.

Interestingly, a positive vote for groundhogs is offered by the New Hampshire Cooperative Extension. They remind us that woodchucks are native mammals, and that other animals can use abandoned burrows for shelter. In addition, the smaller woodchucks are part of the food chain and serve as food for coyotes, foxes, fishers, eagles, and large hawks.

While I have described some of the strategies I used with some failures, I want to provide a few more pieces of information that I gathered from reliable sources (state Cooperative Extension Services, Farmer’s Almanac, U.S. government sites, and the State of Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife).

Build a fence around plants you do not want to share. The fence should be buried 1 to 2 feet deep with a 12-inch L-shape facing outward, and 3 to 6 feet high with the top bent away approximately 12 inches from the area to be protected at the top. The fencing should have no openings wider than 3 inches. Galvanized wire is preferred. An electric fence is also a possibility with at least 2 strands of wire placed at 4 inches and at 6 to 8 inches above the ground. The electric fence can also be powered by battery or solar. Fencing should also be placed around sheds and decks. Galvanized wire mesh can be placed next to building foundations to a depth of 4 to 6 inches and extended in a L-shape about one foot away from the foundation. 

Live trapping — this strategy is problematic and is generally not recommended. A major problem is what to do with the groundhog in the trap. It cannot be released on someone else’s property without their permission. And, releasing a groundhog away from your own property can ensure its ultimate death either from a predator, or because it has no established shelter or source of food and water. Groundhogs are territorial and an established groundhog may attack the new one. The escaping groundhog may find its way onto a street/road.

Repel the woodchuck from the garden by (NOTE: when using deterrent substances, leave one hole untreated so the groundhog will have an escape route. Otherwise, it may remain in the tunnel):

• Coyote or fox urine

• Spreading red pepper flakes near their holes 

• Tabasco sauce near their holes

• Crushed garlic near their holes

• Plant lavender in area you want them to avoid.

While there are repellants sold in stores, individuals can also find recipes on the Internet. For example, one-part ground cayenne pepper to two parts water can be sprayed at groundhog hole or around garden area. The repellants report varied effectiveness.

• Garlic oil or clove oil. Soak rags in the oil and place at hole. 

• Sprinkle Epsom salts near the hole

• Place human hair clippings near the hole

• Place soiled kitty litter near the hole (this worked in my situation)

• Place blood meal (dried animal blood) near the holes.

• Place tree guards on the trees.

• Plant a crop of wildlife flowers and grasses some distance away from the area you want to protect. 

Tossed groundhog favorite foods in a compost pile placed away from the home/garden. The problem with this is that you may also attract other animals.

Individuals can also hire a wildlife control person to remove the groundhog from your land. The Game Warden from the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife can assist with a contact to do this. The most relevant office for the Bridgton area is located in Gray — telephone number 207-657-2345.

Do not use poisons as these can also be ingested by cats, dogs, children and other desirables.

I did speak with a biologist from the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife regarding what can be done with a groundhog that is trapped on residential land. He informed me of the following points:

• The groundhog (woodchuck) is considered a nuisance home and garden species

• To trap and transfer to a new location a person needs a valid trapping license

• To shoot and kill a groundhog, a person needs a valid hunting license. Since the groundhog is considered a nuisance species, there is no specific hunting season.

• The best strategy is to prevent by “wildlife proofing” the landscape or garden by strategies listed above. Prevention is much more preferable than capture.

• The re-location of a groundhog is discouraged due to various factors: Disease transmission, including rabies; the possibility of orphaning the young babies; the survivability of a groundhog is very low if re-located to an unfamiliar area.

A great source of information is titles Living with Wildlifeand can be accessed on the website for the Maine Department of Fisheries and Wildlife. The Maine Cooperative Extension Service also has a bulletin #7154 that is titled, Managing Woodchucks on Your Maine Property.

To conclude, I have written a small riddle: How many veggies would a woodchuck devour if a woodchuck could devour veggies? Sound familiar? I hope that the answer is none if preventative methods are used and are successful.

Good luck!